Heritage for sale : Indigenous tourism and misrepresentations of voice in Northern Chile

One of the major sources of information for international travellers to San Pedro de Atacama in the Lonely Planet guide which, as the quote suggests, describes something more akin to a theme park than a place of vibrant living Indigenous culture. The heritage of the areas is of often overlooked, and the voices of the Atacameno or Lickanantay Indigenous peoples frequently rendered silent (Bushell and Salazar 2009) in the presentation to visitors. Rather, San Pedro de Atacama, a small town in the Atacama Desert of northern Chile, 1,670 kilometres north of Santiago, is commonly portrayed as a geological marvel and magnificent pre-Columbian archaeological site. Settlements such as the village of Tulor that date back 2,500 years are often used to promote San Pedro as he ‘archaeological capital’ of Chile. Besides the rich archaeological heritage of San Pedro some of the main activities promoted to tourists include trekking, climbing, tours to natural landscapes, adventure and extreme sports. Little attention is given to the opportunity to have a meaningful exchange with Atacamenian communities who welcome visitors and offer homestays. A reciprocity between heritage tourism and the loss of Indigenous identity and cultural control continues due in part to a policy vacuum. In this chapter we explore lost opportunities at several levels: for the Indigenous community; for heritage tourism to the region and country and for the visitor. We also consider ways in which cultural signifiers such as the ‘Atacameno brand’ are appropriated and at the same time Indigenous place names replaced.