Roots and routes : vegan food goes ethnic

I visited the Sydney Markets at Flemington, and the Vegan Market in Marrickville on the same weekend late last year, and expected to write a study in contrasts. After all, there is nothing ostensibly in common between a suburban wholesale fruit and vegetable shed that occupies 42 hectares and screams ‘bazaar’, and an inner city park that hosts cruelty-free foods, fashion and homewares. Moreover, I had anticipated that the latter space would be dominated by white, middle class hipsters preaching the virtues of almond milk and fake meat, with branded calico bags and righteous brooches in tow.